Tarhu
The
tarhu came into existence to make available a range of musical styles
that couldn’t previously be played on one instrument. The long slender
neck allows 2½ octaves to be played on a single string with the melodic
fluidity encountered on traditional instruments that employ along-the-string
techniques.
The use
of 4 playing strings also facilitates playing across the strings
(with similar string-crossing techniques used by the violin family), and
extends the range of easily available notes to nearly 4½ octaves.
When
combined with the distinctive sound, It is the tarhu's ability to employ
both of these left-hand technique principals that give it access to such
a variety of musical styles.
Since
1998, one of the design goals for the tarhu has been for it to function
equally well as both a bowed and a plucked instrument. The acoustic design
that gives the tarhu such a range of tone colours with the bow also makes
a large variety of sounds available when it is plucked - especially
noticeable in the attack of each note. A small change in plucking angle
can change the attack from fast and percussive to smooth and flowing.
The
Tarhu is now capable of playing a large range of styles from East and
West, using either bow, several different forms of plectra, and fingerstyle. |
Models
There
are now several different construction methods being employed. For more
details on choosing a body type, see here Choosing
a Body.
The
necks in all models have an adjustable truss rod, with sympathetic strings
passing along a channel in the middle of the neck.
The
vibrating string length for all models is 80cm, which is the maximum length
available using cello strings.
All
prices below do not include case or freight. Long neck tarhu cases $600
for all models (laminated wood construction)
Brass
(as pictured above left)
4 playing strings with 8 sympathetics - Hand beaten brass body, Blackwood
neck, Ebony fingerboard, Schaller gold machine head
$4500
Wooden Ribs
(as pictured above right)
4 playing strings with 8 sympathetics - Body made from 18 ribs of figured
Blackwood, Blackwood neck, Ebony and/or Boxwood fingerboard, Schaller
gold machine heads
$6500
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Stringing and Tuning
Playing
strings consist of (from highest to lowest): Cello E (used for 5 string
cellos); CelloA; Cello D; Cello G. A variety of tunings have been used,
including:
g,d,a,d
g,d,a,e
(same as lowest 4 strings on a guitar);
a,d,a,d
f,c,g,c
g,c,g,
a,d,g,c
(same as cello)
a,d,a,A
(my own favourite, with lowest two "a" strings tuned
an octave apart)
Sympathetic
strings are of plain steel/brass in a range of gauges. These strings sound
best if the tension is kept low, which also means that breakages are very
uncommon. The sympathetic strings are usually tuned to whichever scale
is being played, or alternatively to a selection of chromatic notes when
the music played involves a lot of modulation.
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Fretted
and Fretless
Fretted
Traditionally,
long-necked bowed instruments are fretted with threads tied around the
neck, and this method has been found quite suitable for the tarhu. Many
different tuning systems are available using tied frets, as the threads
are moveable, and frets are easily added or removed. Systems range from
Western 12 tone equal temperament, thru to traditional Turkish tanbur
fretting of 27 notes to the octave.
Fretless
When
playing with a bow, the traditional Turkish fretting produces a result
that is close to fretless, in that the tones are so close together that
an almost smooth glissandi can be achieved. However, once a fretless longneck
tarhu has been tried, it becomes clear that there is a big difference
between a fretted "almost smooth glissandi" and a fretless glissandi
that is actually smooth. There is also a deeper level of tone
colour exploration possible without frets. When used as a plucked instrument,
there is a huge difference between fretted and unfretted tarhus, glissandi
of any sort not being possible with frets.
For
some musicians, the security that frets provide for accuracy of intonation
can not be easily dispensed with. However, it is worth considering
that for bowed use, frets do not guarantee accurate intonation - one still
has to place the left-hand fingers very accurately, and in many ways the
tied frets operate principally as a marking system. On a fretless tarhu,
one can substitute an alternative marking system, with marks etched or
inlaid down the side of the fingerboard according to whatever system the
individual musician is familiar with. For bowed use, intonation on a fretless
tarhu then functions almost
identically to a fretted tarhu, but with an entirely new vista of possibilities
opening up when the tarhu is used as a fretless plucked instrument (fretless
sound samples will appear on this page soon)
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